Research finds that cosmetics may contribute to dry skin
You wake up to the itch of dry scaly skin, and so you dutifully apply moisturiser believing you are helping your skin. Recent research though has identified cosmetic ingredients as a contributor to dry scaly skin.
What most consumers are not aware of is that common ingredients in cosmetics and moisturisers that can damage your skin barrier over a period of continuous use.
Creams that contain mineral oil and paraffin have been shown clinically to damage the skin barrier and increase moisture loss from the skin over a 7 week period of continual use[1]. The researchers suggest that the effect of the hydrocarbon cream may be due to the lipids in the cream interfering with the intercellular lipids in the skin and affecting their barrier function.
The problem is the majority of moisturisers and bath oils sold for dry skin are made from mineral oil and paraffin. These ingredients are cost effective which increases the profit margins for manufacturers.
The solution for sufferers of dry skin is to purchase products that contain vegetable oils. Particularly oils high in gamma linolenic acid. Gamma linolenic acid has been shown to suppress inflammation. Good examples include Hemp Seed Oil, Evening Primrose Oil and Borage Seed Oil. These are the richest sources of gamma linolenic acid known.
References.
1. Source: Archives of Dermatological Research DOI 10.1007/s00403-008-0906-6 Long-term treatment with moisturizers affects the mRNA levels of genes involved in keratinocyte differentiation and desquamation Izabela Buraczewska, Berit Berne, Magnus Lindberg, Marie Lodén, Hans Törma
Nanoparticles in Sunscreen…are we safe?
With the introduction of nanoparticle technology into sunscreen formulations, there are many green consumers who are hesitating on buying nano sunscreen due to suggested possible safety issues.
The cosmetic safety data base until recently held a grim view of nanotechnology, however even they have done a turn around now with nanotechnology.
Nanotechnology is used in sunscreen to minimise the whitening effect that can be seen when you apply normal zinc and titanium dioxide. The beaches in the seventies were reminiscent of zinc with the typical Australian having a coloured zinc applied across their cheeks for protection.
So why the desire for nanotechnology?
It allows the sunscreen to penetrate into the skin for effectively, and allows the correct amount of sunscreen to be applied without leaving the skin white.
Nanoparticles do penetrate the skin. According to Professor Tilman Butz who led the “Nanoderm Project” at the University of Leipzig, the problem is that Titanium dioxide and Zinc Oxide are poorly soluble, so once they penetrate into vital tissue and reach the blood vessels they can be transported to other organs. Once they reach vital organs they can accumulate there.
There is enough information on inflammation being induced by nanoparticles accumulating in the lungs, so it could happen in the liver and other organs.
The Nanoderm Project looked at the penetration of Titanium Dioxide. The findings where that in healthy human skin there is not penetration into vital tissue. There is deep penetration into hair follicles but not into vital tissue. So in this respect it is completely safe.
Professor Butz gave a word of warning though. If you apply sunscreen on the skin it is not homogenously spread. There are areas which are not covered. You prevent the sunburn which is good but should not be fooled into thinking there is no damage. So the message should remain to avoid excessive sun exposure.
Green Tea and other Herbals which protect from the sun.
With the movement in natural cosmetics I believe we will find more natural ingredients coming to the spotlight to help prevent the increasing number of skin cancers and melanomas that are occurring on a world wide phenomena.
So are there any natural treasures that have benefit in protecting us from the sun?
Well the good news is yes there is.
Green Tea has been shown to have photoprotective properties. Topical application of green tea has been shown to protect agains UV damage without any side effects. Recent research in Switzerland looked at applying low doses of Green Tea over a sustained period of time and the results were promising.
The study which was led by Dr Christian D. Mnich from the University Hospital of Zurich found that Green Tea extract at 0.4% over a 5 week period showed signigicant photochemoprotective properties.
There was no significant difference between the green tea samples and the placebo sample with regard to the burning of the skin. However there was a significant difference in the amount of gene p53 being induced in the skin.
Gene p53 is a tumour suppressor protein that is induced in skin cells (keratinocytes) when the are exposed to UV radiation. Scientists are finding that it is more of determinant in the formation of skin cancer, and testing for sunscreen may soon include gene p53 analysis as well.
Green Tea reduced the amount of p53 expresssion in the skin by 31.9%. This means that there is 31.9% less damage occurring on a cellular level. The Green Tea however did not affect the formation of thymidine dimers. Thymidine Dimers are DNA lesions that are usually caused by sun exposure. When these lesions go unrepaired they can lead to skin cancer formation. Gene p53 is the protein which is responsible for their repair.
The findings concluded that green tea does not act as a sunscreen but has anti-inflammatory properties and as a result it reduces the oxidative damage to the cells.
Caffeine and the humble coffee bean
You may have another reason to like coffee, besides your kick start in the morning to get you going. Research in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2009) has found that the caffeine in coffee also protects against the sun.
There have been numerous studies that have hinted at a link between drinking coffee and reduced skin cancer risk, however now there is research to prove that topical caffeine has another use besides cellultite and puffy eyes.
Skin cells that had topical caffeine applied had a two to three fold higher rate of cellular death (apoptosis) than the untreated skin. Apoptosis is one of the ways by which the body can rid itself of damaged and faulty cells, which could possibly turn it into skin cancer. So a 3 fold higher rate indicates that the caffeine is getting rid of the damaged skin cells, therefore minimising the risk of skin cancer.
Milkweed Oil
The oil of milkweed may also help protects the skin agains UV rays according to the United States Department of Agriculture. Milkweed oil has been shown to cover up to 370 nanometres. Which is nearly the entire UV spectrum. advantage is the oil is biodegradable, so when it gets washed off it will be broken down.
The spectrum of Ultra Violet Light
Maca Extract
The humble maca plant from Peru is one of the newest discoveries in the race to combat skin cancer. Recent research at the University of Peru found that Maca extract actually outperformed the commercial SPF 30 sunscreen as far as protection. Although the exact mechanism of protection is not known it is hypothesised that the plant’s polyphenols and glucosinolates may play a part in the protection from UV radiation.
